Ford Escort MKII RS Mexico – Concours

Ford Escort MKII RS Mexico – Concours

Ford Escort MKII RS Mexico – Concours

Not strictly a Video or a How To article but a little bit about my experience owning Ford RS Cars. And entering into a Novice Concours competition @ Santa Pod’s RS Central Day at the last minute!

I’d been a member of the EYRSOC for a number of years & visited most of the Ford RSOC Club Days around the UK. So my, various, Ford RS Cars had always been clean, really clean. But never what I’d consider as concours clean! They were clean enough outside and the interior was usually spotless but the engine bays & the underneaths were just ok.

I’d been looking for a MKII Ford Escort RS either a Mexico or RS2000 for a very long time, a few years, and I had viewed many. Even travelling up to Frazerburgh & back in the same day to view a supposedly very good RS2000! But of course it was nothing like & I knew within 30 secs of seeing it ?? ?

Eventually, I found the car that I was looking for & it had been rebuilt form the Ground up. It was as clean underneath as it was on the top & the engine bay was spotless. The interior was in very good condition with only a few marks here & there. It was definitely more of a ‘show piece’ than a car that had been used. But I knew that if I was going to have one this had to be it. It still looked way, way better than it drove though! This day & age these cars are very much an acquired taste. They’re a lot of money & leave very little to be desired.

It ‘broke down’ on the way home & we had to be recovered by the AA ? But when we got it back home it drove straight off the transporter no problem?! Turns out it had a Tran X Plated Diff & it was very, very stiff in operation. So we thought it was seizing up, as it made a proper racket, when we stopped for a break on the journey home. But that’s how they are! This is OK when you know what you’re dealing with but the previous owner failed to mention as much.

Over the next few months I did a lot of tinkering with it. The Engine was a Harris Brothers 2.0 HPE that was more suited to a drag strip than a street and this was causing a lot of drivability issues! The Diff was changed numerous times from standard to Quaife & back to standard again. We changed the Gearbox to a 5 Speed. The Cam to one with a smoother profile to try & make it drive better. I tried a different Manifold & Exhaust system, this was after Santa Pod, rebuilt the Carbs & had them tuned to try & sort some running problems but nothing seemed to really work. It just ran rough & didn’t seem to be no where near as accelerative as it should have been. But it did look great, really great! Park it next to another car of the same age & this looked like a New RS Mexico!

I think I cleaned the underneath more than I did the top but when they are this good it’s a shame to not keep on top of them, or underneath for that matter lol. As for the Engine Bay then, wow, it just popped. This is how engine bays should look, not much plastic in here.

So, I decided to go to Santa Pod for the RSOC Central Day car show. I was booked in on the EYRSOC stand as always. So, to be on the stand you should really have a nice clean car for the display. If it rains or your car gets dirty on the way to a show then you should really be prepared to wash & detail your car. It’s basically so that all the Cars on your Stand look clean & well looked after to the general public, plus you have a chance of winning a prize for best stand of the show.

But as soon as I got there the other members were badgering me to enter it in concours, a thing that I’d never even contemplated before. Now, I’m not sure if this was them mainly having me on or what but I said OK I’ll have a go. Thinking, I know my cars pretty clean & it’s not rained on the way down here so how hard can it be to get it cleaned up, right! Bearing in mind that I’d travelled from Sheffield which is a not inconsiderable 130+ Miles, in one of these, that very same morning!

I moved from the EYRSOC stand to the Concours area & set to work, I always carry certain detailing products with me when I go to these events, cleaning my car. I was entered in the ‘Novice’ Old School Class which means I didn’t have to worry about the underneath of my car. The Exterior wasn’t too bad with minimal dirt so I got that & the Wheels / Tyres detailed up 1st. Then set to work on the Engine Bay which didn’t look too bad until you started digging deeper! It was filthy, in relative terms, with dust, oil deposits, fluids etc. Plus it was a windy dusty day so every time I cleaned away the dirt it seemed to come back ? Anyway, I decided I’d done enough & had to concentrate on the interior. Then it dawned on me that I didn’t have a Vacuum Cleaner, aargh. So, I had to do the best I could by picking up bits of dust etc by hand, stuff that you wouldn’t have even bothered about generally but it had to be spotless, under the Seats, in the seat rails, under the dash, in the Boot Area and so on. Then back to checking over the rest of the car again & again.

Then you get judged! And they don’t miss a thing! They told me that my interior could have been cleaner & they’d found some dust / dirt on the underneath of the seat rails. Oh well I’d tried my best with the tools that I had. Tbh I can’t say that it was a totally awesome experience as you are tied to your car for virtually the whole day & you do miss seeing the rest of the show. It was OK for a one off but it’s not something that I’d personally want to do even on a semi-permanent basis. I like clean cars & I also like to see the Concours Cars @ Car Shows but I think that it’s better to be able to look at them at your leisure than to compete. Oh, and that’s even after winning my class on the day ??

The story doesn’t quite end there though. As I was about to set off home on the long journey back the Drivers side Seat Backrest decided to fail on one side. So I had a 130+ mile journey in an Old car having to lean to one side whilst driving ? Oh, and the dust / dirt that the judges had found turned out to be the Seat Cushion that was deteriorating & breaking up. Something else to fix ?

It was an experience owning a car like this but I miss the look of it more than the driving experience. It looked great on the driveway & I enjoyed keeping it in A1 condition but it was only good to drive on very short blasts or to a local meet & then get it home before something else broke on it. Don’t even mention the Alternator, I had more than enough trouble with that ? I sold it local & still see it now & again but I’m not pining for it or regretting selling it, yet (& that was 5+ Years ago!).

A few more photos of it in various stages whilst I had it.


Chemical Guys Detailing Flow Chart – Videos

Chemical Guys Detailing Flow Chart – Videos

Chemical Guys Flow Chart Videos


Chemical Guys Flow Chart Videos give you information on the Correct Way to Detail your Car for Beginners & Established Detailers if you simply need a refresher of the correct process.

Step 1: Proper Car Wash with Two Bucket Method – Nissan GT-R – Detailing and Car Wash Flowchart

Step 2: What is a Clay Bar and How To Clay – Nissan GT-R – Chemical Guys Flowchart

Step 3: How to Polish out Swirls and Scratches – Nissan GT-R – Detailing and Car Wash Flowchart

Step 4: What is a Glaze and How To Apply Glaze – Nissan GT-R – Detailing and Car Wash Flowchart

Step 5: What is a Sealant and How To Protect Car -Nissan GT-R -Detailing and Car Wash Flowchart

Step 6: What is a Wax and How To Apply Wax to Car – Nissan GT-R – Detailing and Car Wash Flowchart

Auto Finesse Ford Focus RS

Auto Finesse Ford Focus RS

Starting at £32,765 the Ford Focus RS is the cheapest of direct competitors such as the Mercedes AMG A45 and VW Golf R.
TECH SPEC BREAKDOWN: Engine: 2.3-litre turbocharged EcoBoost
Transmission: 6-speed manual, Power: 345bhp, Torque: 470Nm
Max speed: 165mph
0-62mph: 4.7seconds
Economy: 36.7 mpg (combined)
CO2: 175g/km

Introducing the Ford Focus RS; the latest model to wear the famous RS badge. Those letters follow a long line of affordable high-performance Fords, starting way back in 1968 with the introduction of the 15M RS, with the Escort RS1600, Sierra RS Cosworth and Escort RS Cosworth arriving later.

The very first Focus RS model was front-wheel drive and arrived on UK roads back in 2002, complete with a wider body, Quaife limited-slip differential and increased power to shock the masses. In 2009 came the Mk2. Again featuring front-drive and an increased power of 301bhp, along with RevoKnuckle front suspension. Seven years on, here you have the Mk3.

Succumbing to pressure from competition such as the Mercedes AMG A45 and Audi RS3, Ford has changed up the front-wheel drive tradition of past RS-badged Focus’ and fitted a new electronically controlled twin-clutch four-wheel drive system for optimum traction.

Powered by a Cosworth-tuned version of the Mustang’s 2.3-litre EcoBoost petrol lump and adding a twin-scroll turbo with a larger compressor for better airflow, as well as a larger intercooler, the car has an output of 345bhp and can reach 0-62mph in just 4.7-seconds, before hitting its top speed of 165mph. It has four drive modes to choose from including Normal, Sport, Track and Drift, of which you can select via a button to the right of the centre console.

If the aforementioned power levels aren’t enough for you, tuning specialists such as Mountune and American performance company Hennessey have both created upgrade packs taking power to 370bhp and 405bhp, respectively – at a cost, of course!

This car gets a lush set of Race Style Recaro RS shell seats – an option at £1,145 – as well as 19-inch black forged alloy wheels (£975) and the exclusive Nitrous Blue paint (£745). And the Brembo brakes have been colour coordinated at an extra cost of £100. Inside, you get Ford’s Sync 3 system, meaning you get an 8-inch touchscreen display, satnav, smartphone compatibility, DAB radio and Bluetooth, along with ten Sony speakers, and good storage to the centre console and door cards.

while in terms of emissions it’s not as bad as you’d think for a car of this type and power output, at just 175g/km of CO2.

All in all the Ford Focus RS is a cracking driver’s car to boot!

The New Car Treatment – Auto Finesse Guide

The New Car Treatment – Auto Finesse Guide

The New Car Treatment.

When a shiny new car hits our fleet, the first thing we we is perform a ‘new car prep’. This is a walk-through guide to that process.

Those of you that have acquired a new vehicle will be familiar with the immediate excitement you feel, but more often than not disappointment shortly follows. The condition of the paint and overall finish is never as good as you’d hoped for or expect. It’s no secret most new cars turn up in what most of us would class as a substandard condition of finish – now don’t get us wrong, not all brands and dealers are the same, there are some exceptions and companies leading the way on delivering a new car the way we would expect it to be. However, for the most part, mass production of vehicles and the high-flow nature of most mainstream car dealer franchises means they simply don’t give your new car the same care and attention you would yourself.

Here’s the low down on what to do when ordering your new car; all you have to do is simply ask them not to prepare it. Don’t even let them wash it. If possible, take it home with the protective coverings still in place (we get that this is not always possible, mind).

The problem we have here with this BMW 3 Series is it was a pre-reg car that had been sitting around in the dealership for a while, 4-6 months in fact and had been subject to its fair share of “quick washes” and the odd forecourt wipe down. None the less, we got it for a steal and lets face it, if it turned up perfect we wouldn’t have a lot to show you.

So, we picked the car up with just 200 (delivery) miles on the clock. First thing’s first, we changed the wheels and fit some new adjustable Bilstein suspension.

To kick things off we begin at the wash stage, it’s worth noting our wash on a pre-detail differs from that of a normal routine maintenance wash.
Starting with the wheels, we first cover the entire wheel face, barrel, callipers and tyres with Imperial wheel cleaner.
Using an array of brushes, wooly trios and a microfibre mitt will ensure you get to every part of each wheel. Leave the solution to dwell for a minute before jet washing off.

Repeat this process to each individual wheel. It’s worth noting we also clean the tyre walls at this point.

With the wheels clean we move on to washing the rest of the exterior of the vehicle. The first step is using our pre cleaner Citrus Power on the grubbier areas, such as lower seals, wheel arches, front, and rear sections, before jet washing. This helps to rid bodywork of as much of the larger particles and lose dirt as possible.

Before we go on to contact washing, there’s another vital step to removing as much dirt and road grime (ahead of making contact with it). This is important because the majority of paintwork swirls and scratches are caused at the wash stage. Snow Foam helps to break down a further 50-90% of road grime present, we apply this to the entire vehicle from top to bottom and leave to dwell for as long as possible – rinsing off before any drying out begins to occur. We also use this as an opportunity to work on intricate areas such as grills and panel gaps, using our specialist brushes.

With the car now almost clean from the previous two stages, we now move on to the contact wash. Using two buckets (both filled with fresh water), add our Lather shampoo to just one of them.

Using a lambswool wash mitt, we take fresh shampoo to the bodywork. Ensure to work from the top of the vehicle down. Focus on small sections at a time, before going back to the fresh water and rising any dirt from the mitt. Once rinsed, dip the mitt back into the bucket with shampoo to take fresh shampoo back to the car. This ensures you only ever use fresh clean shampoo on the vehicle. Working around the vehicle in the following pattern; roof, bonnet, upper wings, upper sides/doors and quarters, front bumper, rear, before swapping to a microfibre mitt that we use exclusively on the lower/grubbier areas around the vehicle. This is done to minimise contamination for future washes. Finally, we thoroughly rinse the vehicle down.

With the car still wet from the wash, but all soap/suds residue thoroughly rinsed, we set about ridding any bonded contamination from the paintwork. Firstly, spray the entire vehicle with our Iron Out iron contamination remover – this dissolves any ferrous contaminants that are present. It’s best to dissolve these as opposed to removing them with a clay bar as they are among the sharpest type of contaminant found on a vehicle, and removal with a clay bar can lead to these sharp contaminants being dragged across the paintwork causing fine minor scratches known as ‘marring’. Once the car is covered, paying particular attention to the upward facing panels along the rear and sides, a top tip is to lightly agitate Iron Out in to these areas with a microfibre or foam applicator.

Using ObliTARate, it’s time to dissolve another of the commonly found contaminants stuck to our vehicle’s paintwork; tar. More often found gathered along lower areas and behind wheels, simply spray ObliTARate tar and grime remover onto the lower half of the car and leave to dwell for just a couple of minutes before wiping away with a microfibre towel.

Now we rinse and re wash the areas that have been treated with the tar remover to avoid it interfering or dissolving the clay bar (the next stage).

This leads us to the final stage of decontamination, the mechanical stage using a clay bar. Clay baring your paintwork is a vital step in detail preparation and its important to carry this out meticulously.

Working in straight lines, and using plenty of clay bar lubricant, work small areas approx 400mm x 400mm, in the same order we carried out the wash stage; so, uppers, top sides, front bumper, back, and lower sides.

We quickly carry out a final rinse down to remove the clay lube, then dry the vehicle thoroughly, including, gaps, grills and door jambs.

After the “wet work” is all done, we get the car in the detailer’s den (basically a storage barn we can tuck ourselves away in and detail to our hearts content). We start by taping off any “sensitive” areas that we don’t want to hit with polish, such as trim, rubber and other exposed parts.

Now we get on to polishing the paint. Our vehicle is suffering from only very light defects, all be it lots, but none of which are very deep, the combo opted for was our Revitalise No:2 with the according pad. Working on areas of around 400mm x 400mm in overlapping slow passes, starting at speed 1 to spread the polish, and stepping up to speed 4-5 to work the polish in and break it down, before returning to a final slow speed pass at speed 1.

Follow up with our Revitalise No:3 and the red finishing pad to refine the vehicle’s surface further.

With the paint now looking sharp, we set about laying some protection down. As this particular car is a metallic finish, we opted for a gem in the range often overlooked by many; Spirit. Our Spirit wax has been specially developed to enhance metallic flake and it’s also very durable in day to day situations.

Finish up with the finer details such as dressing grills, trims and tyres, and finishing off the glass.

All thats left to do now is roll it outside and admire the finish…

So there you have it, a new car now looking the way it should from the dealership. It’s also now fully protected, meaning that it should only take a careful wash to return it back to this condition.

We hope you found this guide to detailing a new car useful, and please feel free to contact us for further information on the techniques and products used in this process.

Auto Finesse 12 Steps of Detailing for Beginners

When starting anything, it’s often hard to know where to start, never mind detailing. Detailing can be a maze, there are a number of different levels of detailing, with a number of different techniques and theories, but we’re here to start you off on some of the basics. Basics that probably sound too detailed to be basic, but we can assure you this is as basic as a proper detail gets.

This is our 12-step programme to a beginner’s detail:

Step one: Wheels. Always, always, always start with the wheels. We can’t say it enough. Your wheels are the grubbiest area of the car so will require a good pre-soak with a quality wheel cleaner. You’ll need brushes to get to the hard-to-reach areas, along with a separate wash mitt and bucket than you’d use on the paintwork.

Step two: Pre-cleaner, stage one. Always use a pre-cleaner. One specifically formulated to remove bugs and stubborn grime. We’d recommend our Citrus Power, which is infused with citrus cleaning properties to safely but effectively lessen road grime with the benefit of being gentle to wax or sealant layers, something that will come in to its own on washes later down the line. Spray this on the lower areas of the car, as well as any areas that have become bug-splattered.

Step three: Snow foam, stage two. Snow foams help to break down any stubborn dirt, as well as remove any loose particles from the vehicle, before the physical contact wash stage. Removing as much dirt as possible before contact washing will help to reduce the likelihood of inflicting swirl marks to the paint finish. (most swirls are caused at the wash stage)

Step four: The all-important two-bucket method contact wash. Did you ever think it’d be step four before even putting mitt to paint?! It’s important to use a good-quality shampoo, further reducing the likelihood of any marring or light scratches or swirls, the deep pile allow any particles to be absorbed in to the mitt as opposed to pressed and dragged across the surface. Fill one bucket with wash solution, the other with plain water. Apply wash solution to the vehicle (washing from top down small sections at a time) – Rinse the mitt first in the water bucket before taking fresh wash solution to the car. This method ensures you don’t contaminate your wash solution and are always using clean wash water on your car.

Step five: The decontamination stage. First off, before doing anything, you’ll need to spray on an iron dissolver first – our Iron Out product is perfect at this stage – this will dissolve any ferrous contamination such as industrial fall out and rail dust that has fused itself to the paintwork. Next, you’ll need to use a solvent tar remover to soften any tar that may be stuck to the paint. An important step here is to rewash the vehicle, or at least the areas treated with the solvent, as solvents will melt Clay bars and really interfere with the next step. Clay bars are brilliant, just rub the block over the paintwork using a slip or lube and it does the hard work for you, effectively shaving off any remaining contamination such as tree sap or even overspray in its path. Following the previous two stages, though, there shouldn’t be too much for the clay bars to pick up. Remember to use a lubricant such as Auto Finesse Glide with any clay bar! Then wash and rinse again.

Step six: Drying. Start at the top of the vehicle and work your way down. Tackling it panel by panel will be the easiest way to make sure you get every area streak free. It’s important to work quickly (to avoid water spots), while being thorough so not to leave any streaks from the drying process. If you are left with any water spots, a quick detailer is a great product to clean them up with after.

Step seven: Polishing. You can either polish by hand or you can polish using a machine polisher. Polishing by hand will give you a good finish, but it won’t be anywhere near as good as a machine polish (if you know what you’re doing). We have products for both applications. We’d advise against putting any machine polisher to your car without experience. Our top tip would be to practice on a separate panel first. These are easy enough to pick up from scrap yards. Better that than burning through the paint on your car, resulting in a full panel respray or even a whole car respray.

Step eight: Glaze. Between the polishing and waxing and sealant stages, we would add in our paint glaze. Ultra Glaze is our non-abrasive acrylic, polymer-enriched, glaze designed to enhance paintwork and reduce the appearance of fine swirls. Top tip; it’s particularly good for darker colours and metallic.

Step nine. Wax / seal. Each one of these stages is as important as the other, but waxing or sealing is right up there in the must do list. Applying a layer of wax or sealant will protect all your previous hard work from step one through to eight. If you’re unsure of what wax to use on your paint, take a look at our wax explained piece.

Step ten. Tyre dressings and trim. Following the cleaning of your tyres and trims, now it’s onto the preening. There are products to get plastics back to their true colours, as well as things that will spruce up your tyres without making them greasy.

Step 11. Glass. Glass is something people often forget. Whether it’s light scratches or just finger prints (all Titanic style), a good-quality glass cleaner such as Crystal is a must in any detailers kit.

Finally. Step 12. Final touch-up and wipe down with a quick detailer will finish off all the previous hard work. A good quick detailer will rid the surfaces of any potential residue left from waxing or sealing, as well as any finger prints perhaps left from you going around your vehicle, and generally tidy-up any missed bits or trim dressing that has strayed. It’s finishing touches like this that often get overlooked, but can be the most important, especially for that show-finish we all so desperately want to achieve.

So that’s our 12-steps of detailing for beginners. If you’ve got any additional questions, or you’re not sure on any aspect, drop us an email at [email protected] and we’ll get back to you.

Auto Finesse Wax Range Explained

Auto Finesse Wax Range Explained

It can be confusing when there is more than one product you think does that same thing. Well, Auto Finesse is guilty of having more than one wax in its portfolio of products. And, they may all be waxes, but they are all individually tailored to suit different needs. Not every car’s paintwork is the same, it may be a different strength of paint, it may be a different colour, or you might just want a different finish when you’ve applied your wax.

Whatever your needs, we have you covered! Waxes are expensive and, believe it or not, we don’t want you forking out for the wrong product. We’d rather you get it right and keep coming back for more. So, we thought we’d explain each one of our waxes in detail, so you get exactly what you want. In no particular order, first up is:

Fusion wax has been designed for people that want the look and finish a wax gives, but want the durability of a sealant. This hybrid concoction can be used on any paint colours or finishes and will (depending on the amount of coats you apply) give you more of a wet-look finish, with the longevity of that synonymous with using a sealant. It is formulated from a blend of carnauba wax and polymers and offers high levels of water beading, with an easy on/off application process. Fusion features 4-6 months’ worth of durability.

Illusion wax is made up of 48% T1 Grade Brazilian Carnauba Wax, with the rest consisting of synthetic polymers and high-shine oils. Illusion is known as our ‘show wax’, it isn’t as durable as some of our other waxes, but it does provide the best possible shine from one hit, leaving behind a dripping-wet finish. It can be used on all colours, but is most effective on metallics. It has a longevity period of around 2-3 months. And, if all that wasn’t enough, it smells like strawberry-liquorice. Lush.

If you’re running something vintage complete with a solid hue, or you have a light-coloured car, then Soul is the one for you. The carnauba-based wax features highly-reflective visual dynamics, offering up a glass-like finish to the most difficult of colours. Even the palest hues burst into life with a natural glossy glow. Soul contains 33% T1 Grade Brazilian Carnauba Wax by volume, with the remainder being made up by all natural Beeswax, Candelilla wax, and oils. You’re looking at around 3 months of durability with this one. Oh, and it smells of mango!


Passion is our second wax that’s specifically designed for vintage paint types. The Passion 45%-based carnauba car wax is a professional-grade ‘hard’ wax that has been formulated for vintage, cellulose and high-solid paint types. Infused with paint-nourishing oils, this wax brings a top-quality level of gloss and depth to older paint jobs. Passion in the name, passion in the scent, too. Capable of protection for up to 4 months (possibly more, if you layer it up).


Essence is our first in our ‘all-rounders’ line-up. Containing 40% T1 Grade Brazilian Carnauba Wax by volume, with the remainder being made up of synthetic polymers, and gloss-intensifying oils, Essence has a durability level of up to 3 months. Our all-rounders are suitable to use on any paint or wrap surface, so if you have more than one car, this or Temptation (our second all-rounder) are the perfect wax options. Blueberry scent.

Temptation is our second all-rounder wax in our range. It’s our entry level carnauba wax and creates a flawless finish across all paintworks for a very affordable price tag. Again, if you happen to detail a number of vehicles, this would be one of the ones we would recommend to you. Temptation contains 28% T1 Grade Brazilian Carnauba Wax by volume, with the remainder being made up by all natural Beeswax, and oils, creating a finish that is warm with a subtle, classy glow to light and dark colours alike. It features 2 months’ durability and a sweet pineapple scent.

Desire is our natural carnauba flagship wax. This mixture is something we’re very proud of. Hand-blended in the UK, Desire contains 54% T1 Grade Brazilian Carnauba Wax, along with natural beeswax and oils that treats vehicles with nature’s-own defence against everyday elements such as acid rain, bird dropping, and it helps to prevent UV-fading. Depending on the amount of layers you apply, a high-shine finish can be achieved, along with up to 6 months of durability, thanks to its ultra-high wax solids content, all lovingly finished off with the smell of wild berry.


Spirit is our wax that has been designed with metallic pearlescent paints in mind. Spirit enhances the small metallic flecks to the finish of those paints. Blended with natural waxes and oils, including 50% T1 Grade Brazilian Carnauba Wax, Spirit’s visual clarity, crispness, and gloss makes pearl and metallic paints truly sparkle. While creating this finish, it offers protection of up to 6 months, depending on how many layers you apply. Scent = apple.

Mint Rims wheel wax is created from a blend of high-temperature synthetic waxes and fast-flashing solvent carriers, protecting your wheels with durable synthetic waxes and keeping them in ‘mint’ condition. This blend of ingredients helps to seal your wheels from hot, corrosive brake dust and oxidation. Mint Rims provides 2-3 months’ durability, on average, and can be used on any wheel finish including painted, powder-coated, clear coat, anodised, chrome, and bare-polished alloys.

Auto Finesse consistently strives to be the best car wax UK. Each one is carefully blended by hand in Great Britain and treats your vehicle with nature’s own defence against the elements, giving it water repellency and resistance to environmental pollution (Including UV-fading, acid rain, and bird droppings). Each of our paint waxes comes in a 150g tin. Our wheel wax is available as a 100ml measuring.


If wax has dried, or ‘secondary hazing’ of the wax occurs (can sometimes happen in hot or humid climates), use a quick detailer to soften the residue aiding in easy removal. It’s important to wait at least 3 hours in between layers of wax. Do not wax the vehicle if temperature is below 6 degrees Celsius, or above 35 degrees Celsius. Waxing in direct sunlight, or conditions of high humidity can lead to over or under-curing of the product before removal.